“She's an old soul with young eyes, a vintage heart, and a beautiful mind.”
― Nicole Lyons
Chestnuts Café is tucked inside a run-down alley behind the glossy high-rises of GYQ, another new café in what used to be an old apartment unit.The next-door units also look like they've been transformed into craft shops and cafes, but were closed so we couldn't know for sure. The upper floors remain occupied by tenants, so looking up you'd likely see laundry hanging from the balconies, planters sitting by windowsills mixed with old toys and broken electric fans.
A few steps from the café you can see small noodle stalls selling for 5RMB, the backs of kitchens, people peddling fruits and vegetables on carts. This isn't really a place one would expect to find a retro-inspired café. But it's here, they're here now, sprouting like mushrooms after a rainy day and it's fun discovering them to see what they offer, side from the eclectic curated décor and the fur cushions on wood-and-wicker lounges.
The owners recommend their Thai tea, but too late, I had already ordered the matcha in ice. My glass was still good though, creamy and earthy with that characteristic leafy aftertaste. The husband stuck to his American coffee but this time with ice, since it was really hot. I made a mental note to go back to try the Thai tea, hopefully served warm and perfect for fall.
The shop is small and is also a boutique. Going in I think we interrupted a trunk sale. The space outside was a charming extension of the shop though, and that afternoon we had the front yard to ourselves as we people-watched and stretched our legs after a long walk.
“This year’s vintage is best enjoyed this year. Let’s begin.”
― Gina Barreca
The post title is a mouthful, but I seriously got kissaten vibes when this little cafe came into view. It's located in a residential neighborhood just behind one of the bigger malls here, on the first floor of another older residential building. Grannies hang out right outside watching after babies in strollers. The streets are also tree-lined.
Itaewon wants to remind you that you can find Japanese retro with a South Korean twist here. More and more kissaten-inspired little cafes are popping up, old apartments turned inside out and cobbled together to create spaces with good coffee, cute cakes and retro memorabilia.
These spaces are Instagram-worthy little vignettes, the kind that reminded me of my lola and her rooms in her house with all the lace, perfume bottles and yellowed book pages doubling as wall-art.
The husband and I hung out by the window, and I enjoyed my cake with its dried fruit and crunchy sugar toppings as we looked at the grannies fanning themselves and sharing the day's news. We were part of that neighborhood for an hour and it felt good.
“It's been a pretty tough day," he said. "No sense making it worse with a salad.”
― Susan Juby
Home to Woefield
I had a salad for dinner last night. You know you're getting older when healthy choices become conscious ones, and they become so much harder to stick to. Like blogging, which I have forgotten to do for more than a few months.
My salad left me craving for sugar a few hours after. And then I came across this set of photos taken when I met a friend for mid-morning doughnuts at the little cafe across the street, and I forced myself to be thankful for the days when I could eat a doughnut, pair it with really good coffee, and not feel guilty about it.
Happier times indeed.
